Skin Purging vs Breakouts: How to Tell the Difference (& When to Throw in the Towel)
Yads Cauchi is a Dermal Clinician, Nutritionist (BHSc, MSc) and Beauty Journalist. She's also a mum of four. Evidence based skin health and nutrition are her thing and she works from her own skin clinic based in Canberra - you can find her there, or on Instagram and TikTok @yadscauchiskin.
Skin purging is a topic I am always chatting about in clinic.
It’s a process that can happen when anyone introduces a new active skincare ingredient into their routine that increases their cellular turnover.
Think: Any type of chemical exfoliant or vitamin A.
However, it is also a process that can happen post a skin treatment like a chemical peel and is generally more common with skins that aren’t super familiar with active ingredients.
You see, what we’re basically doing when we’re introducing these new ingredients (either via a new product or treatment) is speeding up our skin cell turnover at such a quick rate that any lingering breakouts that could have taken weeks away to surface, all of a sudden pop up.
All at the same time. So, it can be a little confronting.
However, I like to remind clients that purging is actually a good thing.
And while they may think that I have potentially lost my mind for telling them that, I know that if they trust the process, they will reap the rewards of healthy skin later down the track.
You just have to learn to trust the process (whilst also learning to manage the not so fun parts, like purging, in the interim.)
But... how are you meant to know when your skin is purging, and when a product is actually causing your skin to break out because it's not suitable?
Let's break it down.
What Does Purging Look Like?
@yadscauchiskin Skin purging, although annoying - is temporary and often part of the process to clear skin. You need to trust the process (and your clinician’s advice) #skintok #skincare #skinpurging #dermaltherapist #purgingskin #acnetreatment #acneskin ♬ original sound - itskardashianicon
I find that the most common types of breakouts people experience when their skin purges are generally pustules or whiteheads.
Whiteheads are a small type of blemish that come and go fairly quickly.
They look like pustules, but have less infection around them so the raised part is usually just a whitehead (i.e visible pus) you can just pop and TA DA be on your way.
Pustules on the other hand, tend to look like whiteheads too (which can make things super confusing) but the area around them is usually more red and inflamed.
Like a little painful mountain with a pus-y mountain tip – that will eventually go away.
How Long Does Skin Purging Last?
How long skin purging lasts honestly depends on the person, their skin and the products they’re using.
Although as a general rule of thumb I’d say anywhere between 2-6 weeks.
However, if you have a lot of closed comedones (which are those small bumps on the skin that are caused by blocked pores), it might take longer.
Purging vs Breakouts: How to Tell the Difference.
Firstly, think of the new ingredients you’re using and if any are listed above it could be purging.
Also take note of how long your breakouts last. Again, anywhere between a few days to 6 weeks is normal.
However, if your skin is breaking out and you’re also experiencing redness, itching, flaking, stinging or burning, then the product or treatment isn’t the right thing for you.
Additionally, if you start to experience tiny bumps that can make the skin feel rough you might be experiencing dermatitis, which is commonly mistaken for acne, and you need to reconsider what you’re using.
Learn more about skin irritations in this YouTube video below.
Sometimes, your breakouts can’t only be blamed on one new product or treatment, but instead can be blamed on going too hard too soon with an entirely new routine your skin wasn’t ready for.
Often this causes sensitivity, which is why it’s important to start introducing very active products slowly.
Retinoids, exfoliating acids and benzoyl peroxides are often the ingredients to blame for skin purging.
Vitamin C is less common, but not unheard of.
Also, we can never ignore internal factors like stress, travel, diet, sleep and our hormones.
Breakouts, on the other hand, aren’t always blamed on the introduction of an active skincare ingredient.
They can happen at any time and take much longer to clear.
Some people may not even know why they’re breaking out.
However, if you breakout after using sunscreen or a new oil or makeup product that’s not a purge, that can be filed under more of a traditional breakout.
Acne breakouts aren’t generally limited to pustules and whiteheads either and can present like cysts, nodules and blackheads too.
So basically, skin purging is a temporary process, while breakouts can last a lot longer.
Want to know more on acne, pimples, breakouts and blackheads? Check out the below episode of the Skincare School podcast.
Tips to Avoid Purging When Trying New Skincare.
The best way to avoid skin purging when you’re introducing a new product into your skincare routine is to introduce it slowly.
Think of it like you’re training at the gym.
You wouldn’t join a gym then opt for the hardest class straight away - that would = injuries.
Obviously. The same goes with skincare and your face.
Your clinician will always advise you on the best strengths of actives to suit your skin type and concerns, but it is still important to not go too hard too soon.
If you start to purge from a skincare ingredient you don’t need to give it up altogether, just pull back on how often you use it to give your skin time to adjust.
This can help slow down the purging process.
It’s also important to note that when you’re purging from your vitamin A your skin can become quite dry and flaky too, which has the potential to make the breakouts even worse.
Especially if you’re not properly hydrating the skin.
Find more beginner retinol tips in this YouTube video below.
What to Do About Purging Breakouts.
If your skin is purging or breaking out, the last thing you want to be doing is squeezing or picking at your skin.
COSRX Acne Pimple Master Patch or any kind of pimple patch will be your best friend.
Keep your skin hydrated, pull back on the actives, continue to wear sunscreen and just give your skin some time.
Remember, I know I sound crazy, but purging can actually be a good sign.
It means your skincare is effective, and your treatments are doing the work.
Be patient and trust the process.
And if at any time you’re concerned, get in touch with your clinician.
Want to read more skin purging or breakouts? Check out the Beauty IQ articles below:
